Non-obvious places in Western Bohemia that are worth seeing

Pilzno – not only for brewing fans

I started my Czech adventure in Pilzno, a city only 70 minutes away from Prague. I stayed in a hotel located just a few minutes walk from the historic center.

My first walk, of course, was towards the Old Town. I must admit that the scale of the main square – Republic Square – really surprised me. It is huge, surrounded by beautiful tenement houses, and the whole is dominated by the Gothic Cathedral of St. Bartholomew.

. At first I thought it was a souvenir from the Battle of Grunwald, but the story turned out to be more interesting. In fact, the camel was a trophy that the inhabitants of Pilsen captured from the besieging Hussite army in 1433. The Hussites received an exotic animal as a gift from the King of Poland, and for the city’s defenders, its capture became a symbol of courage and triumph, which they proudly included in their coat of arms.

Meat with whipped cream? Please!

However, the Czech Republic is not only about monuments, but also about cuisine – filling, aromatic and full of surprises. I had to try local specialties, and one dish was particularly memorable.

I admit that I don’t normally like cranberries, but in this dish its tart accent was absolutely necessary and fit perfectly. This combination, although it may seem strange at first glance, tastes amazing! The sweetness of the cream and the sourness of the cranberries perfectly balance the taste of the meat and thick sauce. Czech cuisine, strongly rooted in tradition, is characterized by a love of meat, thick sauces and, of course, dumplings, which come in many variants.

It didn’t grab me at first. I must honestly admit that its huge, austere ruins seemed a bit overwhelming to me and I felt there was something missing that would help bring the walls to life. Still, I couldn’t deny it one thing – the views from its high walls over the Otava River valley and the surrounding hills were beautiful. And it was this contrast – raw history in the foreground and an idyllic landscape in the background – that over time made me appreciate its authenticity.

But this is totally my vibe. First, you have to get a little tired climbing the hill (886 m above sea level), but what awaits you at the top, believe me, is worth it. The view of Šumava is simply amazing. During the tour, the guide told us that this is not an ordinary stronghold. .

Its strategic importance was so great that today it is considered one of the most important castles in the Pilsen region. As if that wasn’t enough, the castle is also associated with a charming legend about an old woman who, out of greed, wanted to steal the gold brewed by the elves. As punishment, she was transformed into an owl, which to this day guards the castle walls.

After days spent sightseeing and eating, we were crying out for some exercise. We chose electric bikes and I must admit that with each ride I am becoming more and more convinced of them. I love the flexibility of them: when you feel like it, you can get really tired, but when the route starts to climb, the support turns out to be a salvation.

Our route from Modrava to Březník in the heart of Šumava National Park was perfect to test it out. The weather was not kind to us that day – it was raining, but it didn’t spoil our plans at all. On the contrary, the fog hanging over the valley and the lush greenery of the forest created a magical, slightly mysterious atmosphere, and the impressions will remain in my memory for a long time.

This is an absolutely extraordinary place in the heart of Šumava National Park. On a huge, three-hectare area, the pack lives in conditions almost identical to those in the wild. Walking on a 300-meter footbridge, suspended safely above their world, I could stand almost face to face with them, without disturbing their peace.

The local guide’s stories about life and hierarchy in the herd were fascinating. I realized how wrong the myth of the “lone wolf” is and how complex the body language and sounds these animals use. Watching these beautiful, proud predators in motion, their silent interaction and untamed nature was an experience that teaches humility and inspires great respect for nature. It was the perfect ending to my Czech adventure.