Higher and higher. We leave behind us the vast Umbrian valley, almost parched by the sun in July. In front of us there are monumental buildings towering over the entire area. If this is how the gradation of tension looks like, then Italian landscapes – as has been known for a long time – deserve an Oscar.
– Because when there were wars between cities and states, what was robbed first? Of course, relics. – we hear on site.
The first Christmas nativity scene
It’s the holiday season in Poland. Winter weather favors returns – at least in memories – to slightly warmer parts of the world. It is also a time when our thoughts look to the future and we make plans for the next year, including travel plans. Sometimes not too far, because to places where “dolce vita” reigns supreme. Or maybe something more?
The land of excellent wines, picturesque rivers, lush greenery and arable fields also has a number of quite non-obvious places. One of them is . And since the Christmas thread has already appeared. Even in the middle of summer, you will find something related to this time of year – in many shops you can buy Christmas nativity scenes. For good reason, because that’s what it is
Assisi, the Umbrian pearl. “That’s the charm”
Everyone can find their own reason to visit Assisi. And this is regardless of views or matters of faith. One day is really enough for the city to remain in your memory and you won’t really want to escape from it. After all, there’s a reason
– We are here once again. We still remember the time when the place was hit by an earthquake. You couldn’t enter here because it was quite risky, recalls Mrs. Małgorzata, who came here with her husband.
We come back here mainly for spiritual reasons. But it’s also good to drink espresso at a table in a street. Plus a glass of wine and a fresh, small crossaint. It’s enough for us. This is where the charm lies. Assisi is a place you read about and know about. I think it’s good to touch it too
A small Etruscan settlement was established here, which was already known as Asisium from the 3rd century BC. From the 12th century, Assisi was already under the rule of the Duchy of Spoleto, which led to it getting involved in wars with neighboring cities such as Perugia. In 1367 it was annexed by the Papal States, ruled by the popes. In 1860, it was annexed to the United Kingdom of Italy, created by annexing the Italian Peninsula to the Kingdom of Sardinia.
Despite the crowds, hardly anyone is rushing in any direction. A quick espresso and time to walk the stone streets. Especially after the earthquake mentioned by Mrs. Małgorzata, which hit Assisi on September 8, 1997.
“I met an Italian guy, fell in love and that’s how I ended up here”
Although there are many visitors, there is a place for everyone. It’s really easy to find even a small piece of space where there’s simply no one there. And this is probably the most surprising thing. The noise disappears somewhere behind the walls, and sometimes it disappears for good. Tables, signs of shops and shops. The window covered with flowers and the scent of flowers emanating from the interior encourage you to enter one of them. After a while, word by word, it turns out that the saleswoman comes from Germany, specifically from Cologne.
This is certainly the beginning of some stories that come down to a common denominator: Italy.
It all started with him
Francesco Bernardone, the son of a wealthy merchant, was called the “poor man of Assisi”. He founded a Franciscan monastery, was a missionary and a stigmatic. He came from a merchant family and took part in the war between Assisi and Perugia. He was captured and although he later took part in subsequent expeditions, illness forced him to return to his hometown. According to legends, Christ spoke to him from the icon of the cross, ordering him to rebuild the church. He decided to give everything he had, renounce his family and lead a poor life: he walked barefoot and called for repentance.
After some time, other brothers began to join him. Initially, Pope Innocent III did not want to accept the rule of the order, but he changed his mind after a vision he experienced in a dream. Over time, the Franciscans decided on a mission in Africa and the Holy Land. In 1219, Francis met Sultan Al-Kamil in Egypt, whom he tried to convince to abandon Islam. The meeting could have ended in his death, but he let him go. After returning to Italy, he resigned from the leadership of the order, and the rule was approved by Pope Honorius III.
How the Hill of Hell became Paradise
The name was related to the death sentences carried out here. This place was donated to the Franciscan order by a resident of Assisi, Simon Pucciarelli. Due to the fact that the rule did not allow the possession of any goods, from 1228 the area came under the protection of the Holy See.
. That’s why they deliberately concealed information about the burial place –
The interior of the lower temple is richly decorated with frescoes, and the oldest ones include: The most important place is the descent leading to the crypt with the Chapel of the Tomb of St. Franciszek. It was built after the discovery of the sarcophagus.
A 60-meter tower with Romanesque features was added to it from the south. The interior of the temple is also richly decorated with frescoes, painted on three levels. The lowest one has 28 scenes, i.e. the so-called Legend of Saint Francis and two higher ones – from the New and Old Testament. The presbytery and transept are decorated with frescoes by Cimabue.
The authorship of the paintings on the top of the walls with Old Testament themes is attributed to a Tuscan or Roman follower of Cimabue, while the cycle dedicated to Saint. Francis is considered a work by Giotto. However, there are no sources that could confirm this in any way. One thing is certain: while visiting the basilica, all the paintings will fight for attention. And it’s really hard to divide it – especially when you realize that their origins date back to the Middle Ages. This can be heard in the reactions of some tourists, among whom the most common words are:
Amazing, is it really that old?
The previously mentioned earthquake that hit Assisi in 1997 also left its mark on the basilica.
Thus, we move to another important temple, which is the church of St. Clara.
The building was built in the years 1257-1260 on the site of the church of St. George. At first glance, it resembles the upper church of St. Basilica. Franciszek. The facade is decorated with strips of pink stone quarried from Monte Subasio. There is a characteristic rosette above the portal and stained glass windows. In the church crypt there is a crystal coffin with the body of Saint. Clara.
Brutti has Buoni, which means don’t judge by appearance
Here and there, between stone buildings, there are views of the Umbrian valley. The perfect Italian postcard is, of course, complemented by characteristic shutters, flower pots and cafe tables in front of the buildings. Some of them have glass display cases displaying various Assisi and Umbrian specialties, especially wines and pastas.
Of course, there is no shortage of typical Italian specialties in confectioneries. Mostaccioli francescani, pagnotta francescana, and Although they come from Tuscany, they are also produced in many other Italian cities. In their case, the rule of not judging a book by its cover applies perfectly. The taste makes up for everything.
And on this tasty note, it’s time to end your day in Assisi. A city with a sensitive but characterful soul, which only looks like stone on the outside. It can be discovered not only in a crowd, but especially when even the busiest street becomes empty in the blink of an eye. Thanks to this, you can spend some time alone with Assisi. Proof in the photo below.
