Feeling it’s time to hit the road? Do you have a sunset in Kenya, karaoke in Tokyo, salsa in Cuba, a walk with alpacas in Peru and sunbathing in the Maldives on your dream list? Do you want to find out whether the Taj Mahal, Machu Picchu, the Great Wall of China, the Statue of Liberty and Petra look as spectacular in real life as on postcards? You have beautiful plans, but… you don’t know how to implement them? Don’t worry, the author – Agata Zaremba and the experts she invites will advise you how to organize a trip to the most distant corners of the world on your own, safely and on a low budget (and to those quite close, because there is so much to discover in Europe too). They advise on how to buy cheap tickets, book safe accommodation, use public transport and read cultural codes. All you have to do is… enjoy the journey.
I look through large metal binoculars. On the horizon I see a small town in the middle of vast fields. At first glance, it looks completely ordinary – except for the fact that it is on the streets. So I’m looking for any sign of life. Finally, I notice something – a vehicle is moving in the distance, visible only as a tiny point from this distance. So there are people living in the area after all.
As I later learn, a lot was offered to the inhabitants of these areas to agree to live, who had never formally signed a peace pact with each other, which means that
Our guide says that people living on the southern side of the DMZ received land for free. Men who grew up here are also exempt from probation, which in South Korea covers all men aged 18 to 28 and lasts an average of 18-21 months. For comparison, in North Korea this obligation is as long as 10 years for men and 7 for women.
But let’s get back to the image seen through binoculars. Everything seems normal, I move the viewfinder a little further – then I see a huge mast. It is 160 meters high. At its top there is a flag with a red stripe, blue edges and a characteristic star. Only then do I realize that it is the most closed and guarded country in the world.
This experience is only possible during an organized visit to the demilitarized zone, under the supervision of a guide.
DMZ one of the most guarded places in the world
was established in 1953 under the Panmunjom Agreement, which ended hostilities during
The conflict began with the invasion of South Korea by North Korea, supported by the USSR and China, which was defended by UN forces with the dominant participation of the US. Already in 1951, the war turned into a devastating positional conflict, and ceasefire talks lasted for over two years.
The outcome of the Korean War was dramatic – it claimed approximately . Nearly 85 percent were destroyed. development, and the effects of the conflict left their mark not only on the Korean Peninsula, but also on global politics, deepening the Cold War division of the world.
The Panmunjom Agreement ended hostilities, but was intended to be only a temporary solution, providing space for further peace talks. , which means that both countries are still formally at war.
Only a military demarcation line (MDL) and a four-kilometer buffer zone – the Korean Demilitarized Zone – were established. It stretches for 250 kilometers across the entire peninsula and is still considered to be
What is a trip to the DMZ like? A moving walk through history
You can only get to the Demilitarized Zone in an organized group, with a licensed guide. Most often, they last half a day. The departure takes place in the morning – the bus heads north from the capital of South Korea, towards The program usually includes: a visit to the Peace Park, symbolizing freedom and reconciliation, the Dora viewpoint and the famous Tunnel No. 3 – one of several famous tunnels dug by North Korea in order to infiltrate the South.
We can book a trip to the DMZ in advance online. Its cost is really low, considering that the price includes transport, admission and a guide. If we go after the season, e.g. in November, we will pay only PLN 130. In the high season the price is approximately PLN 200.
The first stop is , dedicated to the victims of the Korean War, but also to the families separated by the division of Korea. We spend about an hour here, and the presence of the guide turns out to be invaluable – he presents dramatic statistics. , which means that every third Korean suffered. This is where the inhabitants of the South come to symbolically pay tribute and bow to their loved ones who remained on the other side of the border. In the park you can also see a destroyed steam locomotive from the Korean War and the Freedom Bridge, which was used by soldiers to return home after signing the armistice.
The next point is located in a zone controlled by the military. Before entering, our passports are checked – for this purpose, South Korean soldiers get on the bus – they are young boys, often looking like they have just turned 18. This is where they perform their compulsory military service.
From the observatory’s viewing platform we can look at the entire Demilitarized Zone and the northern side
Propaganda village in North Korea
Kijŏng-dong is an unusual place that is called Kijŏng-dong for a reason
According to the North Korean government, the village was supposed to be inhabited by 200 families, and there are kindergartens, primary and secondary schools, and a hospital there. However, observations from south of the border indicate that this is in fact the case
The village was built in the 1950s. In addition to the modern buildings at that time, electric lighting was impressive – at that time it was a luxury in the countryside. In the past, loudspeakers placed on the streets broadcast propaganda messages aimed at South Koreans. All this to encourage them to defect to the North in difficult times.
However, modern telescopic observations have revealed that the buildings are merely empty concrete shells – without windows and often even without interiors. In turn, house lights are turned on at specific times to maintain the illusion of residence.
Third Tunnel in the DMZ – what was it supposed to be used for?
The last point of the program is a visit to Tunnel No. 3. It is here, standing in a narrow corridor underground. But what exactly is this tunnel?
After the armistice in 1953, North Korea began building a network of underground passages, which – according to estimates – were to be used to reach Seoul, located only a few dozen kilometers away. Four such tunnels have been discovered so far, although it is believed that there may be many more underground.
Initially, the North Korean authorities denied their existence, and when the evidence became irrefutable, it was explained that they were only allegedly used for coal mining. However, it quickly turned out that there were no deposits of this raw material in the area.
The most famous of them is – one of the few places where you can actually find yourself inside the Demilitarized Zone, or more precisely under it.
We have to leave everything in the lockers before entering. You cannot bring a phone or even small bags there – only a bottle of water is allowed here. Before entering the tunnel, helmets are handed out – they turn out to be very useful, because in some places the passage is really tight and you have to negotiate it in a crouched position. At the end of the tunnel there is a small window, looking through it we can see the barricade that the South Koreans have blocked the tunnel with.
Although it is a popular attraction today, the site is still under strict military control – a reminder that the line between peace and conflict on the Korean Peninsula is still extremely thin.
Graduate of journalism and media studies, specializing in press, advertising and publishing photography. At Interia, he most often deals with travel and social issues. Lover of Italy and Japan, enthusiast of cheap travel. She visited over 25 countries, including Brazil, Thailand, Japan and the United States, organizing all trips on her own. And all this with a small carry-on backpack!
