Trail of the Eagles’ Nests (Kraków-Częstochowa Upland)
In summer, it is, in short, crowded here. And in the fall? A completely different story. The local castles and fortresses, scattered between Krakow and Częstochowa, show their more mysterious side at this time of year. And if I had to choose one moment to discover the Jura, I would choose early autumn.
The two castles are separated by only about one and a half kilometers of the trail leading among the characteristic Jurassic outliers. So you can leave the car and take a short walk between the strongholds, instead of just taking a quick photo in front of the castle. A vast hill, limestone rocks and the remains of medieval walls give really wide views of the Jura from here.
There is another reason why these landscapes may seem strangely familiar. Ogrodzieniec Castle, one of the most characteristic points of the Trail of the Eagles’ Nests, appeared in the first season of Netflix’s “The Witcher”. It was here that scenes related to the Battle of Sodden were filmed. In autumn, when fog appears over the limestone rocks and the forests surrounding the ruins take on rusty and golden colors, the entire area looks like a ready-made setting for a fantasy world.
Ojców National Park (Kraków-Częstochowa Upland)
If autumn has its perfect landscape, Ojców National Park is definitely one of my favorites. This is one of those destinations that I would recommend both for a spontaneous Saturday trip and for the entire autumn weekend.
Let’s start with a classic: the Krakow Gate, i.e. huge limestone rocks standing on both sides of the former trade route leading to Krakow. Nearby there is the Dark Cave, and a little further the famous Hercules’ Club and the castle in Pieskowa Skała standing on a rock. In Ojców itself, it is also worth seeing the ruins of Casimir the Great’s castle.
In autumn, however, it is not worth focusing solely on completing subsequent points on the map. Definitely a better plan? Set off on foot through the Prądnik Valley and give yourself some time for a quiet walk without rushing. The route leads between high limestone walls, a forest and a stream, and the colorful treetops almost close over the road. After a few kilometers of such a walk, coffee or tea drunk straight from the thermos tastes a hundred times better than in a cafe.
Będkowska Valley (Kraków-Częstochowa Upland)
If Ojców seems too obvious a choice for you, I have an alternative: Dolina Będkowska. It is worth including it on the list, especially when the goal is to rest, and not to break records on the trail.
This is one of the most famous climbing spots in the Jura, so in good weather you can see climbers high above the ground. Along the way, it is also worth looking out for the Szum waterfall on the Będkówka stream. Don’t expect a Polish Niagara, but against the background of the autumn forest this small waterfall has a lot of charm.
For me, the biggest advantage of the Będkowska Valley is the walk itself. A forest road, a stream, limestone rocks and clearings mean that the landscape changes every now and then, and the route never gets boring for a moment.
Hala Rysianka (Beskid Żywiecki)
Another place worth visiting is Beskid Żywiecki, because this region offers unique landscape values in autumn.
Along the way, you gradually leave the buildings behind and go deeper and deeper into the Beskid forest, until you finally reach the area of Hala Rysianka. And this is where the best part of the trip begins. With good visibility, the panorama can reach far beyond the nearest Beskid ridges, and the autumn forests look from above like a great mosaic of yellow, orange, red and green. If the weather is good, it is worth staying at the arena a little longer instead of heading back straight away.
And after the ascent, nothing tastes as good as warm soup in the atmospheric PTTK shelter. You just have to remember that autumn in the mountains has its own rules. Even if it’s a few degrees and sunny at the bottom, it can be cold, wet and windy higher up. A raincoat and something warmer in your backpack are a must!
Pass over Łapszanka (Spisz)
Łapszanka is a tiny, quiet village in the Polish Spiš region, right next to the border with Slovakia. This town has a specific advantage: it is inconspicuous on the map, but makes a huge impression on site.
In the foreground there are gentle fields, meadows and a small chapel, and far behind them there is a jagged wall of the Tatra Mountains. In autumn, there are golden grasses, colorful trees and often extremely clear air. When conditions are right, the mountains look so close from here that they seem to start just beyond the last field.
When planning a visit to this place, I would aim for early morning or just before sunset. Not only because of the light. Łapszanka has become a popular place among photographers and people hunting for Tatra panoramas, so on a sunny weekend it will not always be completely empty. However, if you encounter a cool, cloudless autumn morning, there is a good chance that you will not want to leave for a long time. This is one of those views that makes it worth giving up using your phone. Because there are places that a photo simply cannot convey.
Colorful Lakes and Wielka Kopa (Rudawy Janowickie)
If you want to see autumn in the most amazing colors, it is worth visiting Rudawy Janowickie. These picturesque water reservoirs – yellow, purple, blue and green – were created in the workings of former German pyrite mines. From then on, nature did its thing and the minerals made the water sparkle with unusual colors. Combined with the rust and yellow leaves of beech forests, it looks extremely attractive.
But Colorful Lakes are just a warm-up! The route leads through quiet, charming forests, where in October there is incredible peace and fallen leaves rustle under your feet. Although the summit dome itself is forested, along the way you will come across clearings and viewpoints offering a panoramic view of the Karkonosze Mountains and the Jelenia Góra Valley bathed in autumn mists. After such a walk, it is worth sinking into an armchair in one of the atmospheric guesthouses and remembering the views with a cup of hot tea.
